Honeywell ST699

Product Information

The one on the floor is more straight forward - it's just a like for like pass-through to extend the cable... If you have a S-Plan system with a single heating zone 3 for HW-On and 4 for CH-On, nothing to either 1 or 2. Does that mean hot water tank in airing cupboard which is heated via the boiler? (You may also have a separate immersion switch for the tank).

The bypass provided a path from flow to return if both valves are closed buit the pump is still running. The manual valve should be replaced by an automatic bypass valve. I assume the current picture of the ST699 is after it has been removed from the wall and it's sitting on a table so to speak. That said based on your prior ST699 wiring. I think your hot water was permantly on as you had linked L->5->6 . And the HW-OFF (7) was linked to CH-ON (3). Just wondering if anyone knew what would be the best replacement programmer for the Honeywell ST699? Other than like for like.

With the older type of systems, (without motorised valves) it's not possible to have the heating 'on' without the hot water being 'on' as well. These are usually older systems installed before 1980's, but can be upgraded. Changing the Hive to gravity mode just makes it automatically turn the hot water on whenever the heating is selected on. I want to replace my st699 with the 9400. The install/conversion guide looks simple enough, but what do I do with the cables that are marked not connected (ie 5 and . When it didn't work, I've Googled again and come across this Forum. Whilst I can find a few issues other users have had, I can't find anything that relates to my issue. I have noticed however, that the old wiring to the ST699 that is redundant, wasn't as per the diagram I saw in one of the posts. I have cables linking: Yes N & L were previously in N & L on the ST699. Regarding the locations of the other cables, I'm pretty certain that I did the following swap, although, I'm second guessing myself now:

Ideally I would like a modern digital timer with flexibility for multiple programmes for different days and times and a wireless thermostat in the living room to control the temperature. And one that doesn't lose all it's settings whenever there is a power interruption! I opened up the Honeywell wiring hub near the boiler power switch to try to get a better idea of what the wires were doing As an aside my 'bay' window is more like a box on the side of the house, it's not full height and as far as I can see the large window sill is the only thing separating it from the outside, which seems like a horrible design from an energy saving/warmth point of view considering all the other walls have cavity wall insulation. I've attached pics of the ST9400C wiring before and after the swap (ST9400c Wiring 1) and a pic of the remaining wires in the ST699. Is it as simple as looking at a wiring diagram for the ST699 and attaching to the corresponding connection of a new timer?I've been doing a lot of research on heating systems recently, and for those that have seen my other topic I've been having trouble with a cold radiator which I think will need new valves. You have what they call BASIC SYSTEM 1 or 2. Gravity hot water, pumped CH and with/without room thermostat. Now just need to see how that maps to the ST9400. However you should ensure you know what went where on the ST699. The use of three blue cores, two brown cores and one red core coming into the ST699 is a recipe for confusion. Strangely enough the links between terminals is the least of the problems. My question is how difficult would it be to replace just the timer and thermostat (with a wireless one) without touching anything else in the system? Would I need to replace it with a Honeywell model or are all the wires like for like? Find a Plumber Plumbers Looking for Work - Post Here Looking for a Plumber? Post Jobs Here Looking for a Heating Engineer? Post Jobs Here Find a Renewable Energy Specialist Plumbers Directory Listings Unfortunately the part did not fit, with the attachment being too large. This does make me wonder why you are advertising indesit parts, that do not fit

Whilst wire colours do necessarily mean anything on a central heating system, the combinations you have are a bit unusual. For example blue being used for CH on & HW on and brown for hot water off. That's based on your indication above about wiring on ST699.Yes, the picture of the ST699 is now - those are the linking cables left in after removing the other cables.